Shuckin' isn't easy: NC oyster shuckers take on national champion

Milliken, who won the national championship for oyster shucking in 1986, is allergic to the shellfish. She said gloves help her avoid any allergic reaction, but she won't be eating any of what she shucks anytime soon.

Milliken was one of four North Carolina oyster shuckers competing against the reigning National Oyster Shucking Champion Jay Gallet during the North Carolina Oyster Summit at Marbles Kids Museum on Tuesday.

The competitors were tasked with shucking two dozen North Carolina oysters the fastest and most accurate. After the shucking comes the judging - where the half-shells are inspected for cuts, damage to the belly and shell remnants. As with the national championship and other competitions, penalty seconds are added for imperfect shucking.

None of the men Milliken competed against Tuesday were even born when she started her run as the National Female Oyster Shucking Champion in 1988. She won that title seven more times and finished second in 2022.

Milliken's sister, Lisa Bellamy, was also a champion oyster shucker, winning the national female championship four times.

Bellamy's daughter Annie Bonifacio of Holden Beach also took up the family sport. A nurse, Bonifacio is also a champion oyster shucker. She was the National Champion in 2022 and earned the national female title four times.

"I started shucking around 14 and quit three years ago," Bonifacio said.

Bonifacio had retired from shucking following the death of her mother but came out of retirement for Tuesday's event.

"Oyster shucking is a family no matter where we are from, all our oyster shuckers get alone. It’s like a reunion. We can go years without seeing each other," Bonifacio said.

Before Tuesday's competition, Bonifacio and Milliken were able to select their two dozen oysters from a tray. They were specifically looking for ones that "had good butts."

"We shuck from the back, it gives you leverage with the opening right there. It gives you time to swipe the knife instead of going right into the muscle," Bonifacio said.

Although Bonifacio's time was more than two minutes behind the National Champion, she wasn't fazed. Her aunt finished about 50 seconds ahead of her when penalties were included. The two were just happy to be around the oyster shucking community - a second family.

National Oyster Shucking Champion Jay Gallet took a deep breath and closed his eyes. Seconds later he was wielding a knife at breakneck speed shucking oyster after oyster.

The Louisiana native said he isn't used to North Carolina oysters, which differ from the texture of the ones he gets in the Bayou State. Gallet grew up shucking oysters with his family.

The shucker from Superior Seafood & Oyster Bar in New Orleans has been at it since he was 10. He will be competing in the World Championship this September in Ireland.

Gallet captured the national title by shucking 24 oysters in 1 minute and 49 seconds. With penalties, his time was 2 minutes and 13 seconds.

On Tuesday, Gallet broke his own record - finishing at 1 minute and 48 seconds with an adjusted time of 2 minutes and 5 seconds.