Bill Leslie: Honeysuckle sensation

I'm not a big dessert guy, but there is special dish I refuse to miss each spring.

Posted 11:38 a.m. May 21, 2019 — Updated 11:38 a.m. May 21, 2019

CHAPEL HILL, N.C. — I’m not a big dessert guy, but there is special dish I refuse to miss each spring.

It’s the Honeysuckle Sorbet at Crook’s Corner in Chapel Hill. It’s one of those limited desserts. When the local honeysuckle supply runs out, the sorbet is removed from the menu.

Cindy and I started going to Crook’s many years ago for the shrimp and grits. The Crook’s Corner shrimp and grits recipe is simply the best anywhere, and I think it has gotten even better with time.

I was worried when Crook’s Corner owner Gene Hamer and executive chef Bill Smith announced their retirement from the restaurant last October. The new owners, Gary Crunkleton and Shannon Healy, promised to “maintain the integrity” of the restaurant’s menu while pursuing new seasonal dishes. So far, so good!

Crook’s new executive chef Justin Burdett delivered an awesome meal recently.

Cindy and I started with salads and then came the killer classic – shrimp sautéed with bacon, mushrooms, scallions, garlic and Tabasco served over cheese grits.

What I like about the Crook’s Corner recipe is the harmony of the dish. Every ingredient has its proper place. This year, I detected a slightly elevated prominence of the mushrooms and bacon. My taste buds were delighted. They never overwhelm you with grits here. The dish is a work of art that you have to taste to appreciate. It’s expensive at $27, but you get a lot of it, and it’s always delicious.

Bill Leslie: Chef and the Farmer

It’s also hard to pass on desserts at Crook’s. Artwork inside the restaurant features gorgeous pictures of pies and cocktails. We knew what we wanted before we came.

Nothing was going to get in the way of Honeysuckle Sorbet. It’s a recipe that transports you back to your childhood when you first discovered the sweet nectar of wild honeysuckle. It was a practice of patience as you pinched, pulled and produced a tiny amount of liquid candy with each honeysuckle flower.

Bill Leslie: Chef and the Farmer

The new crew at Crook’s Corner did a great job with our favorite seasonal dessert. We’re good for another year! Be sure to call ahead to make sure they still have an ample supply of honeysuckle.

I celebrate honeysuckle in a song on my new album coming out this year. More about that a little later! I love to hear your stories and ideas. Email me at bleslie@wral.com.

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