Fall Maintenance: DIY Firewood
I live in a middle-class, midcentury suburban neighborhood. In Colorado, as in many parts of Middle America, this usually comes with a smallish house on biggish lot that's loaded with mature trees. If you're lucky, the house has a working fireplace. (I'm close to the capital and its famous smog
Posted — UpdatedAll wood burns, and most residential properties have more wood than you might realize. For example, the tree and shrub branches that most people bundle for the trash man contain a lot of good kindling. Anything ¾ inch or thicker is worth keeping and should burn well once it's dry, so why throw it in the landfill? With a good pair of loppers you can strip down and harvest even a large branch in just a few minutes. Once the branch is on the ground, quickly trim off all the little suckers and leaf-bearing shoots. Then trim off the skinny ends of the branches. Cut the unusable pieces between three and four feet long to facilitate bundling for the garbage pickup. Cut the useable branches into 12- or 16-inch lengths, or about the same size as your firewood. Since branches don't get split, fresh ones can take a year to dry out.
Two tools are perfect for DIY trimming and even felling (again, small) trees, both of which feel much safer to work with than a chain saw, particularly when you're up on a ladder. One is a pole pruner kit with a long pruning blade and a heavy-duty lopper head. If you have a lot of trees on your property even a professional-grade pole pruner (recommended) will pay for itself many times over. The other tool I like is a reciprocating saw. Yep, a Sawzall. Because now you can buy long pruning blades with teeth like those on a bow saw. The shorter blades are better for general pruning and cutting, while a longer blade may be needed for trunks and big limbs; get one of each.
Once the trunk is cleaned of branches, you can decide whether to fell the whole thing or to shorten it from the top down, again in manageable pieces. In either case, use the traditional notch-cut technique (there are numerous sources for learning more about this) to prevent the hinge effect and to direct the falling trunk, and make sure the tree won't hit anything important even if it falls opposite to where you expect.
Cut trunks and thick limbs into logs of the desired length, using a reciprocating saw (with a pruning blade) or chain saw, or go old school and use a bow saw. Cut the ends straight so the logs stand up plumb and steady for easy splitting. Splitting whole logs speeds up drying considerably, so always split what you can before stacking it. An axe cuts through dead wood, but if the wood is green or the logs are big or knotty, try a steel splitting wedge and sledgehammer. Failing that, let the whole logs dry out for a season before splitting them. Or, you can forget the waiting and rent a power splitter for an afternoon; this reduces the freeness of the firewood but adds to your free time.