Cooking for a Classic kicks off with Combos as ingredient

Diners and chefs at the first round of the annual Cooking for a Classic competition got an early curveball when Combos – yes, the pretzel, cheesy, crunchy snack – was announced among ingredients to be featured in the evening's dishes.

Cooking for a Classic pits local chef teams from Triangle restaurants against each other in a single-day challenge from ingredients to finished appetizers, entrees and desserts, then lets diners sample, vote and advance a winning team. Monday's first round featured Eli Rodriguez of so*ca and Kevin Smith of 41 Hundred. It was the first of four opening-round matchups. The winners from round one will face off in the semifinals on March 4 and 5, and the competition will culminate with the grand finale on March 11.

Cooking for a Classic, in its fourth year, is a fundraiser for The Lucy Daniels Center, with proceeds used to fund direct emotional and mental health services for children from birth to 12 years old. The winning chef drives away in the "classic" of the title, this year, a 2002 Chevrolet Corvette convertible.

Six dishes showcase texture, presentation

The first appetizer out of the kitchen, Smith's root vegetable gnocchi, set the expectation for an evening in which varied textures were as present as flavor in the dishes.

Smith piled warm, pillowy gnocchi on a light-as-air turnip mousse and topped it with a crunchy, fruity, cool slaw.

The contrast of temperatures and textures was remarkable to diners and judges alike.

"This dish was tenderly treated," one judge said. "An appetizer should be like this – it prepares the palate for something more."

The so-ca team appetizer was significantly more solid, and showed the first integration of the Combos. The rutabaga casserole was densely-packed thin layers with just a sprinkle of the Combos on top.

One diner, who said she smelled the Combos right away, was won over by the flavor. "I didn't think I would like it, but it comes together," she said.

The entree offerings – both made with wild boar – were a study in contrast.

The first, a coffee-crusted rib from Rodriguez, had a dry rub with plenty of punch. Diners at my table stabbed at it a bit with our knives before deciding simply to pick it up and gnaw from the bone.

Smith's NC Korean barbecue take on the boar was juicy and, plated on top of cheese grits, decadent. It was a less creative but solid combination.

"This is just perfect," one judge said. "It is a classic presentation, and it is not missing anything."

At my table, opinions were mixed about the entrees, depending on whether the emphasis was on meat or sides.

"I wanted the meat from No. 1 and the grits from No. 2," one diner said.

For dessert, Smith served a rutabaga tres leches cake accompanied by Asian pear ice cream. The taste of the vegetable was a little much for me, and another diner at my table compared the flavor to dense pancakes.

The judges concurred, describing it as "dense and doughy." Two, who reference Hispanic heritage, quibbled with the name, saying it was more of a corn bread than a tres leches.

Rodriguez followed it up with a deconstructed take on strawberry shortcake. His toasted shortcake was large crumbs scattered with strawberries and sweet whipped cream.

"It looks like a mistake," one diner said.

Smith's dishes get the votes to advance

One the tasting, talking and voting were done, each chef came out to greet the room and talk about his inspiration for the dishes.

When all was tallied, it was Smith and the team from 41 Hundred to advance into the semifinal rounds, to be held March 4 and 5.