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Food

Smoked, Steak May Never Be the Same

Posted July 17, 2018 2:19 p.m. EDT

Smoked steak at Morgan's Brooklyn Barbecue in New York, July 10, 2018. Two methods, barbecuing and grilling, meet in an unusual approach taken by Cenobio Canalizo, the chef at Morgan’s Brooklyn Barbecue. (Caitlin Ochs/The New York Times)

NEW YORK — There is barbecue, low and slow, and then there is grilling, hot and quick. Now, both methods meet in an unusual approach taken by Cenobio Canalizo, the chef at Morgan’s Brooklyn Barbecue. The result is smoked steak, so delicious that it made me wonder why anyone would cook a steak any other way. The steak, a boneless prime New York strip, is smoked with a dusting of smoked salt for about 20 minutes in a regular smoker alongside brisket and ribs. Then the steak is set aside. Later, to order, it is finished on the grill and served sliced with more smoked salt. The meat has a subtle, alluring woodsy char in its aroma and flavor. Canalizo said the method would work for a bone-in steak and, with about 45 minutes in the smoker, a double porterhouse or rib-eye. Try it at home.

Smoked steak, $33 for 14 ounces, Morgan’s Brooklyn Barbecue, 267 Flatbush Ave. (St. Marks Avenue), Prospect Heights, Brooklyn, 718-622-2224, morgansbrooklynbarbecue.com.