Riffing On One of the World’s Great Sandwiches

Oddly enough, I first tasted banh mi, one of the world’s most delectable sandwiches, in Albuquerque, New Mexico.

This was decades ago; I was hungry and grabbed one from the checkout counter of a giant Asian supermarket. Two bites in, I was hooked. It was extraordinarily flavorful — sweet, spicy and meaty. For me, it was a pleasant change from the usual New Mexico menu of tacos, enchiladas and tamales (though I love those, too).

There are now, of course, numerous Vietnamese-American communities and Vietnamese restaurants all over the United States, so banh mi is readily available, known to many as a first-rate quick bite. The classic, built in a crisp baguette spread with mayonnaise, contains pâté, thinly sliced ham and roasted pork, along with strips of pickled vegetables, cilantro, cucumber and hot chilies.

Banh mi is, after all, a hybrid, with French colonial roots. The French eventually pulled out of Vietnam, and for the most part, local flavors replaced Gallic ones. But the baguette, mayonnaise and liver pâté remained.

Shops specializing in the sandwich are fairly easy to find in New York City, but all are not created equal. Much of their success lies in the bread: ideally a sandwich roll or baguette, with a crisp crust and fluffy interior, and always heated. When I was in Vietnam a few years ago, the bread was warmed over hot coals, kept behind the counter for that specific task.

But at home, you might use your oven, and a kaiser roll, a small ciabatta or a bolillo from a corner bodega. Or look for an old-fashioned airy baguette from a French bakery (not the denser, new-wave type).

However much I love them, though, I’m no more than an amateur, one who has gleaned quite a few tips from the California-based teacher and food writer Andrea Nguyen’s book, “The Banh Mi Handbook” (Ten Speed Press, 2014). In it, she offers countless twists on the original, including fillings of grilled chicken, stir-fried beef and char siu pork, and even a Louisiana po’ boy-style banh mi with fried oysters, all of which she claims as authentic.

Emboldened, I decided to make banh mi with miniature pan-fried crabcakes and all the spicy trimmings. It received raves, but I’ve also made banh mi with fried shrimp. Both would be approved by Nguyen, I suspect.

Other options could include mayonnaise-dressed lobster or crab salad, as kind of riff on a Yankee lobster roll. But maybe don’t try serving it to die-hard, traditionalist New Englanders.

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Yield: 2 sandwiches

Total time: 30 minutes

8 ounces crab meat

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon cornstarch

2 tablespoons chopped scallions

1/2 cup mayonnaise, preferably homemade

3/4 cup fresh soft breadcrumbs

2 tablespoons lime juice

1 teaspoon grated ginger

1 teaspoon fish sauce

1 teaspoon brown sugar

1 medium carrot, cut into 4-inch julienne strips

1 small cucumber, cut into 4-inch julienne strips

Vegetable oil, for frying

2 sandwich rolls or 1 small baguette, cut in 8-inch lengths, warmed until crust is crisp

A few lettuce leaves

Sliced jalapeño peppers

A few cilantro sprigs

A few basil sprigs

A few mint sprigs

1. Place crab meat in a small bowl and season lightly with salt and pepper. Add cornstarch, scallions and 2 tablespoons mayonnaise and mix thoroughly with a fork. Form mixture into 4 balls of equal size. Roll balls in breadcrumbs, and flatten into cakes about 1/2-inch thick. Pat more crumbs onto the surfaces of each cake, transfer cakes to a plate and refrigerate until ready to cook.

2. In a small bowl, whisk together lime juice, ginger, fish sauce and brown sugar. Add carrots and cucumbers and toss to coast. Set aside for 5 minutes to pickle slightly.

3. Set a small skillet over medium heat and add oil to a 1/4-inch depth. When oil is hot, carefully add crabcakes, using a spatula. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, until nicely browned and crisped. Remove and blot on paper towels.

4. Split the sandwich rolls lengthwise and coat interior surfaces with remaining mayonnaise. Lay lettuce leaves on one side of each sandwich and top each with 2 hot crabcakes and the pickled vegetables. Sprinkle with jalapeño slices and cilantro, basil and mint sprigs. Serve sandwiches immediately.