Food

One Pound of Shrimp, a Meal for Four

Here’s how to feed a family of four with a pound of shrimp: It starts with a visit to the fish market, and ends with a dish of spicy, deeply flavorful shrimp-flecked rice noodles.

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One Pound of Shrimp, a Meal for Four
By
David Tanis
, New York Times

Here’s how to feed a family of four with a pound of shrimp: It starts with a visit to the fish market, and ends with a dish of spicy, deeply flavorful shrimp-flecked rice noodles.

You’ll first want to look for wild shrimp in the shell, fresh or frozen, unless you have access to sustainably raised farmed shrimp. Be aware that most farmed frozen shrimp, though inexpensive, are of dubious origin, and are likely dipped in some kind of preservative solution. I’d rather get a small amount of higher-priced wild shrimp.

Ask to have the shrimp peeled and deveined, or do it yourself at home. Then, start chopping: Using a large knife, cut the shrimp crosswise into rough quarter- to half-inch pieces. In a few minutes, you’ll have a nice pile.

You are essentially making a flavorful mixture of spiced minced shrimp that’s similar in shape and bite to crumbled sausage. You’ll add ginger, garlic, soy sauce, scallions, sesame oil and hot red pepper and let the flavors meld: The longer it rests in the fridge, the more aromatic the mixture becomes. (By the way, this mixture could also be used as a wonton filling, but that’s another story and a bigger project.)

For this recipe, an optional but desirable ingredient is dried shrimp, found in Latin American and Asian grocers. I buy mine in Manhattan’s Chinatown, where a generic type and a superior quality wild dried shrimp from Louisiana are available. It’s surprising how just a tablespoon deepens the flavor of the shrimp mixture. (If you do end up seeking out dried shrimp, don’t let it languish in the back of your pantry: It can also be used to enhance fish stews.)

Once you’ve marinated the chopped shrimp, stir-fry it in a large wok or frying pan over high heat until it sizzles and achieves a crumbly texture, just as you would when frying any other sort of minced meat. It’s then combined with cooked rice noodles, just to heat them through and coat them with the well-seasoned shrimp meat and its juices.

Sprinkled with chopped peanuts and a few herb sprigs, your dinner for four is ready. It’s that easy.

RECIPE:Spicy Minced Shrimp With Rice Noodles

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 45 minutes

Ingredients:

1 pound dry flat rice noodles (sometimes called rice stick noodles)

About 1 pound wild shrimp, in the shell, fresh, or frozen and thawed (about 24 pieces)

2 fresh red Fresno chilies or green Serrano chilies, seeds removed, if desired, finely chopped (or substitute 1 teaspoon red-pepper flakes)

2 tablespoon dried shrimp, finely chopped (optional)

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil, plus 1 teaspoon for drizzling

2 tablespoons mirin or sherry (if using sherry add 1 teaspoon sugar)

1 teaspoon grated garlic (about 2 or 3 cloves)

1 tablespoon grated ginger

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as necessary

3 tablespoons chopped scallions

3 tablespoons coconut or vegetable oil

Basil leaves, cilantro sprigs and 2 tablespoons chopped roasted peanuts, for garnish

Lime wedges, for serving (optional)

Preparation:

1. Soak noodles in a large bowl of lukewarm water. Leave until softened but still firm, about 15 minutes. Drain and rinse well with cold water. Set aside. (Alternately, boil noodles for 2 or 3 minutes, then drain and rinse well with cold water.)

2. Meanwhile, peel shrimp and make the seasoned shrimp mixture: With a large knife, cut the shrimp crosswise into rough 1/4- to 1/2-inch slices. In a large bowl, combine shrimp, chopped chilies, dried shrimp (if using), rice vinegar, soy sauce, 2 teaspoons sesame oil, mirin, garlic, ginger, salt and scallions. Mix well to distribute ingredients throughout. Refrigerate for at least 20 minutes (or, preferably, up to 24 hours).

3. Put coconut oil in a large wok or wide cast-iron skillet over high heat. When oil looks wavy, add shrimp-sausage mixture, breaking it up with a wooden spoon, until it looks crumbly. Stir-fry until pieces are lightly browned, about 3 or 4 minutes.

4. Add noodles to pan and toss briefly, just to heat through. Drizzle with 1 teaspoon sesame oil. Taste and add a little more salt if necessary. Transfer to bowls and garnish with basil leaves, cilantro sprigs, chopped peanuts and lime wedges, if using.

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