Barbecue That’s Completely Over the Top

Donnell Rogers prepares a plate for a customer of his barbecue business, Smack Grill, in New York, June 16, 2018. The pitmaster's vinegar-based sauce, influenced by the pork-based barbecue found in eastern North Carolina, is a no-frills condiment with a secret ingredient that makes it uniquely capable, it seems, of suiting any meat, especially the crackly, golden-brown skin of Rogers’ chicken. (Anthony Geathers/The New York Times)