The Rise and Fall of Turkey Brining

Cookbook editor Rux Martin and her husband, food writer Barry Estarbrook, demonstrate brining a turkey in their home kitchen in Ferrisburgh, Vt., Nov. 6, 2018. After two decades of flying high, the wet-brined bird has lost altitude with many of the food-media influencers who sent it soaring. (Brett Simison/The New York Times)