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Eduardo Bustos, left, with ice cream cones while DJ Lim, right, works on a latte at Oddfellows Coffee & Cream in New York, April 5, 2018. (An Rong Xu/The New York Times)

Eduardo Bustos, left, with ice cream cones while DJ Lim, right, works on a latte at Oddfellows Coffee & Cream in New York, April 5, 2018. (An Rong Xu/The New York Times)