Let’s Get a Can of Wine. It’s Not as Bad as It Sounds.

Beer in cans? Of course. Wine in cans is a somewhat newer phenomenon. But before you dismiss them all as plonk — which, until recently might have been justified — look at what Francis Ford Coppola put in distinctive narrow cans with his Diamond Collection, more serious than most. His nicely structured new Monterey County red is a food-friendly pinot noir. Then there’s the clever bottle-shaped aluminum container from Domaine Chandon, which the California sparkling wine house has introduced for its Sweet Star, a slightly mellow, picnic-friendly quaff not meant to be saved for special occasions. Cider in cans is also not new, but the canned Eden Heritage Cider, from heirloom apples grown in Vermont, offers a step-up with light gold, lip-smacking refreshment.