Even the Gelato Is Infused With Mezcal at Claro

NEW YORK — It makes sense for a restaurant that specializes in the food of Oaxaca to feature mezcal, the smoky agave-based spirit that dominates the region. At Claro in Brooklyn, T.J. Steele, the chef and an owner of the restaurant, also has a brand of mezcal, El Buho. He has worked with Il Laboratorio del Gelato in Manhattan to create four gelatos flavored with El Buho. Most are named for the type of agave used to make the spirit, like Espadin, the mildest, and Tepeztate, with the smokiest flavor. Tobala and Añejo are the others, all subtly different. — $4.50 for two scoops at Il Laboratorio del Gelato stores, a flight of all four varieties, with oranges, $10, at Claro, 284 Third Ave. (President Street), Gowanus, Brooklyn, 347-721-3146, clarobk.com.