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Business

One Apple Orchard. 5,000 Rules.

An apple orchard at Indian Ladder Farms, a fifth-generation family operation whose harvest season accounts for about half of its annual revenue, in Altamont, N.Y., Nov. 2, 2017. This fall, amid the rush of commerce, federal investigators showed up to check on the farm’s compliance, suddenly turning the small office staff’s focus away from making money to placating a government regulator. (Nathaniel Brooks/The New York Times)