At a Copenhagen Hotel, Scandinavian Style and Seasonal Seafood

Niels Brocks Gade 1; nobishotel.dk.

From 2,400 Danish kroner (about $394).

Opened in September, the Nobis Hotel Copenhagen is a stylish 77-room property in a landmark neoclassical building from 1903 that formerly housed the Royal Danish Conservatory of Music. Handsomely renovated interiors were designed by the in-demand Swedish firm Wingardhs, known for mixing materials — concrete, marble, oak, leather — with furnishings both midcentury and modern. The result is a visually stunning mash-up of styles, from the concrete reception desk in the polished marble lobby to the grand central staircase with ornate moldings and a glittering cascade of pendant lamps. This is also the first international property from Sweden’s Nobis Hospitality Group, which has earned acclaim for its buzzy boutique hotels in and around Stockholm.

Next to the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek art museum and a block from Tivoli Gardens, the hotel is less than 10 minutes on foot from Copenhagen’s Central Station.

After check-in, a receptionist escorted me to my Superior room, the cheapest category, and provided instructions on how to control the lights and temperature. Located on the ground floor, a half-flight up from street level, the airy room had chevron oak floors, greenish-gray walls, a custom desk and wardrobe along one wall, and a steel four-poster bed with crisp white sheets and a firm king-size Dux mattress. A large arched window with a deep niche faced a busy road — noisy at night but an inviting perch for people watching.

What the bathroom lacked in space, it made up for in drama. Tiled floor to ceiling in beautiful dark-gray Bardiglio marble, the compact room had a large round heated mirror that remained fog-free even when steam billowed from the adjacent, glass-enclosed shower stall (there was no bathtub). Generously sized bath products from the cult Swedish perfume house Byredo were arrayed on a polished countertop. One hiccup: The unfortunate placement of a heated towel rack behind the toilet resulted in a scalded shoulder.

A sauna and a small fitness room are in the basement, the latter with weights and a few cardio machines. Guests can also rent a bike to explore this cycling-centric city. Valet and limousine services can be arranged. Wi-Fi is fast and free.

From the lobby, the elegant central staircase descends to Restaurant Niels. Service was uneven, but the restaurant offered an excellent breakfast buffet (from 295 kroner; included in my rate), with items such as hearty loaves of Danish rye, poached eggs with tender greens, halved avocados drizzled with spice mix, and thick curls of cured salmon. In the evening, menus focus on seasonal Nordic products — Norwegian scallops, Danish lobster, hay cheese — while cocktails and a bar menu are served in a nearby bar nook. A limited menu is available for room service.

A good-looking splurge suited to the design connoisseur who values a comfortable, central location and can overlook the occasional choice to favor form over function.