Preserved lemon is an essential ingredient for capturing a taste of Morocco. Not long ago, you had to make it, a time-consuming process of curing whole lemons in salt. Then whole, salted lemons became available in jars. And now New York Shuk, a small producer of North African and Middle Eastern ingredients, has introduced a smooth, jammy paste of preserved lemons that does its citric, saline work in dressings, sauces, marinades, spreads and dips.

New York Shuk Preserved Lemon Paste, $15.95 for 10 ounces, nyshuk.com.

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