A Simple Way to Settle a Great Debate

Like clam chowder, lobster rolls come with regional allegiances. The Maine style requires a mayonnaise-based salad; Connecticut prefers chunks of lobster basted with melted butter. Both are sold ($19 each) at the summertime lobster cart stationed outside Oceana restaurant in midtown. Bill Telepan, the executive chef, infuses his melted butter and mayonnaise with the flavor from the lobster shells. But I would say that for taste, the Connecticut entry edges out my usual favorite with mayonnaise. The stand also sells a lobster salad ($25), lemonade, chips and chocolate cookies, along with iced tea and iced coffee.