7 things to know before booking laser hair removal

Chances are you have heard something on the radio or seen a commercial referencing laser hair removal. Laser hair removal is the process of removing unwanted hair with — you guessed it — laser treatments.

While a straightforward process, it isn’t only just for women who want to be hair-free on the beach. Both women and men choose to get laser hair removal for various reasons. If you or someone you know is considering laser hair removal, here are some things you should know about the process and the subsequent results.

Laser hair treatments remove many of the hairs at the targeted area, but not all of them — so think "reduction" versus complete and total removal of every follicle.

"A lot of people think it’s going to remove every single strand of hair that you have on your body. That's just not the case," explained Katie Keenan, a medical esthetician at Sona Dermatology & MedSpa.

The way the laser hair removal process works entails the use of a device that passes a concentrated beam of light over your skin at the specific area where you wish to have hair reduced. The laser's light targets the area, and safely damages and halts the growth of hair follicles.

A laser system such as the one Keenan employs involves a series of high-repetition pulses that increase the temperature of the hair follicle and surrounding tissue, destroying hair at the source. To achieve optimal results, you’ll need to undergo several treatments over the course of multiple weeks.

"You need at least seven treatments to get you to where you want to be. You only lose about five to 15 percent [of your hair] per treatment, so that's why you need multiple treatments," Keenan explained. "Right next to the base of the follicle there is a stem cell. So, basically, the hair has to be in the first stage of hair growth in order for us to disable that stem cell."

Keenan added, "There are three stages of hair growth. So, that's why you're only losing that five to 15 percent per treatment — because that's all that's in the first stage of hair growth when you come in for a treatment. In order for us to disable that stem cell, it has to be in the first stage of the growth cycle."

Laser hair removal is permanent, and clients typically enjoy long-term results that mitigate the need for shaving, hair removal creams and waxing. However, some clients may need additional treatments depending on skin and hair type to achieve the desired results.

Smooth legs are usually the first thing that comes to mind when thinking about laser hair removal, but the process can be applied to virtually any area of the body covered in hair, including the legs, chest, bikini area, neck, stomach, face (including the lip area), back, arms and underarms.

"We basically use an ultrasound gel to apply to the area, and that keeps the skin cool and helps the laser glide across the skin," Keenan said.

While a cosmetic procedure, there are various reasons that a client may opt to have laser hair removal on a specific area. Keenan explained many female clients with polycystic ovarian syndrome are referred to her since excessive hair growth is oftentimes a side effect.

"They have excessive hair on their face [and] sometimes on different parts of their body, and it's quite coarse and they have quite a bit of it. So we have a lot of clients that are referred to us from doctors and dermatologists for that reason," Keenan said.

Keenan said patients are also referred to her to help with ingrown hairs.

"A lot of people get really bad ingrown hairs, men especially, on the neck area, and women in their bikini lines," Keenan said. "We've had clients that have had to have them excised because they're so bad, so their doctors send them to us because it’s the only way that they can get rid of the ingrown hairs. Some people get cysts really bad — the only way to get rid of that is by having laser hair removal."

Laser hair removal is not a completely painless process. Keenan compares it to getting a tattoo, but with heat. She said other clients have compared the discomfort to getting snapped with a rubber band.

"The darker your hair — the coarser your hair — the more you will feel the laser at work," Keenan advised, pointing out that since the laser seeks out melanin when deactivating follicles, darker hair will require more heat. "So if you have pretty light, pretty fine hair and you don't have a lot of it, you won't feel it as much as someone who has super dark, super coarse hair."

Since laser hair removal uses lasers that target melanin, skin and hair types that are on extreme ends of the light or dark spectrum are typically not optimal candidates for treatment.

"If your skin is darker than your hair, then the laser is going to pick up on your skin color versus your hair color. [The] same goes if your hair is too light — it isn't going to work as well. It doesn't work on blonde hair," Keenan explained.

Those undergoing laser hair removal should avoid the sun two weeks before treatment and two weeks after.

Sun exposure increases the risk of burning, scarring and other skin damage on the targeted areas. Once you are cleared to be out in the sun, sunscreen with a high SPF is recommended. Clients should keep this in mind when planning laser hair removal treatments around sun-filled vacations and travel.

While many people are good candidates for laser hair removal, there are exceptions.

Those who are taking certain medications and antibiotics with skin photosensitivity side effects are unable to be treated. Cancer patients who have undergone radiation must also wait a certain amount of time before they are able to be treated with lasers.

Additionally, those with very deep skin tones or very light hair, and those with soft and fine hairs are not ideal candidates.

Laser hair removal can be an effective option for those who want a low-maintenance alternative to shaving or waxing that can leave you feeling hair free and carefree.

If you've decided that laser hair removal is something you want to pursue, choose a provider with care. Ideally, you want to work with a licensed medical provider in a comfortable, relaxed setting. It’s also a good idea to find out if the provider offers any guarantees or promises about the treatment and results.