Tomatoes, Without the Pie

When I think of Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana in New Haven, Connecticut, I hunger for the white clam pizza — no tomatoes — from the coal-fired oven. So why care about the pizzeria’s canned Italian tomatoes, newly on the market? For one thing, the chain’s tomato pizzas are also noteworthy. And second, the peeled tomatoes in tomato purée are really good and need but a bit of vigorous crushing and seasoning to render them suitable for homemade pizza or pasta.