Surfing scientists work on wave forecast tool at Outer Banks

Posted July 14

— A new surf-prediction model developed by a partnership of two coastal scientists and a computer engineer promises to revolutionize the accuracy and efficiency of surf forecasting, long regarded as notoriously challenging and unreliable. Known as AcuSea, the service crunches decades of publicly available wave and beach data with data on current conditions at different surf spots.

“We’ve combined our wave analysis skills with 35 years of observation, and just a blinding passion for surfing,” said Jeff Hanson, a retired oceanographer who worked at Johns Hopkins University and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility in Duck.

A demonstration of the brand-new model is currently being tested and reviewed by 25 volunteers, most on the Outer Banks, Hanson said. The full site, which is not yet available to the public, allows users to click on 120 locations from Virginia Beach, Virginia, to Wrightsville Beach.

READ MORE in Coastal Review Online: CATHERINE KOZAK: Surfing Scientists Develop Wave Forecast Tool (Coastal Review analysis)


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