Talking Turkey: The Country, Not the Bird

Last Stop: Konya

Wed, 03 Oct 2007 11:05:21 -0400

Our final stop on this wonderful, whirlwind trip was the city of Konya, a somewhat modern and economically strong city of 800,000. In route we stopped at another kervansaray (where trade caravans would stay the night in ancient times). This kervansaray is architecturally beautiful, with both covered and uncovered areas and a section where the animals were kept. It is all empty now, of course, but shadows danced through the rooms and pigeons flew gracefully in the rafters. If you were quiet enough, you could almost here the bustle of donkeys and carts and the chatter of men discussing theirs trades so many centuries ago.

In Cappadocia: Dreamscapes and Dervishes

Sat, 29 Sep 2007 16:13:35 -0400

On our first morning in Cappadocia I awoke to find two dozen hot air balloons floating over the valley outside my window like lamp shades suspended by invisible strings. This is a surreal place; like a dream, but not an earthly one. It’s a moon dream made real.

Kilims and Carpets in Kayseri

Sat, 29 Sep 2007 01:43:40 -0400

Like so many cities and towns in Turkey, Kayseri has a deep and varying history. It was once capital of the Hittite empire, and was later renamed Caesarea under the Romans. It came under Arab rule, then Mongol, and ultimately was taken over by the Ottomans. That kind of past is the reason you’re never quite sure what you’re looking at, and so must lean on your friendly tour guide for information. Our guide’s name is Semih (Sammy).

Off the Beaten Path

Fri, 28 Sep 2007 01:56:03 -0400

Tokat, Sivas, Turkey

Ain't No Mountain High Enough

Thu, 27 Sep 2007 14:07:32 -0400

Amasya, Anatolia, Tokat, Hamam

In Ankara: Archaeology, Arts and Attaturk

Wed, 26 Sep 2007 12:10:05 -0400

(Note: I’ve posted two BLOGS back-to- back because the last hotel did not have Internet access.)

The Little Village that Could

Wed, 26 Sep 2007 11:19:51 -0400

After one night back in Istanbul we said goodbye to many in our group who were only with us for the first week and set out for our next destination: Beypazari, the little village that could. The trip was 200 miles of mostly mountainous countryside. Many times I thought I was driving on the Blue Ridge Parkway, until suddenly the terrain gave way to something more akin to Arizona. We were all amazed at this quick transformation.

How Many Miles to See the Tiles?

Mon, 24 Sep 2007 15:34:56 -0400

We left Bursa early, stopping briefly at the towel outlet (think Burlington Coat Factory) and meandered through the hills and valleys to Iznik, another old Turkish town known for its painted tiles. Tile-making was huge in past centuries and can still be seen on display in palaces and mosques throughout the country. It was only about 25 years ago that a retired professor chose to invest time, money and effort to revive the lost art, to the pleasure of individuals and companies far and wide who now have them in their homes and workplaces for every day viewing pleasure. Iznik tiles are special and highly valued because they are made from ground quartz, which helps make the finished tiles more vibrant. We toured the factory to see how each tile is made, baked, and painted. My mouth dropped upon entering the showroom, but it was more about the prices than the beauty of the tiles (although they we beautiful). A collection of exquisite tiles suitable for a lucky shower wall somewhere back home ran upwards of $2000. Gulp. Not the best place to shop for the nonprofit man.

Bursa Menagerie: Workhorses, Silk Worms, and Camel-Skinned Puppets

Sun, 23 Sep 2007 15:13:27 -0400

Bursa is the fifth largest city in Turkey and one of its economic engines. Textiles are huge here, as are other industries. And while the focus of this tour is on culture and not business/trade, I do have a few statistics to share (given off the cuff by our guide, so consider this is a small margin of error). Unemployment in Turkey ranges from 13 to 20 percent. The average income is less than $5000 per year. A three bedroom apartment will cost you about $200,000 to buy in Bursa (and even more in Istanbul), but most people cannot buy because the lending market – very new to the country – charges 1.4 percent interest per month (yes, per month) for a maximum of 20 years. About 8 percent of the country’s profit goes to 3 percent of the people. So how do people make it? They barely do, and they have to work other jobs – selling in the market, for example – to make up their losses.

For the Love of a Woman

Fri, 21 Sep 2007 12:58:41 -0400

It’s always about a woman.