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Meet the pioneers behind the Triangle's coffee scene

A coffee pioneer and industry leader in the Triangle remembers a time when frappuccinos weren't a thing and specialty coffee shops were hard to find.

Posted Updated
Stockton Graham & Company
By
Chef Brian Adornetto
RALEIGH, N.C. — A coffee pioneer and industry leader in the Triangle remembers a time when frappuccinos weren't a thing and specialty coffee shops were hard to find.

Raleigh's 90s coffee scene

Jeff Vojta, co-founder and CEO of Stockton Graham & Company, grew up on a tobacco farm in Kinston, graduated from Kinston High and earned his accounting degree at East Carolina University. Before entering the coffee industry, he was a senior manager at a Big Four accounting firm in Raleigh, but he always longed to be an entrepreneur. While trying to figure out what type of business to open, Jeff brainstormed and met with numerous investors, friends and business owners -- always over coffee. During one of the meetings, Jeff had a “serendipitous moment” and, in 1994, he opened Classic Coffees in north Raleigh with his friend Wes Wilson.

Unfortunately, the less than 800-square-foot establishment left the duo with no room to roast their own beans. Instead, they sourced coffee from the highly acclaimed Dilworth Coffee, Charlotte’s original specialty coffee roaster and retailer.

Jeff and Wes loved that Dilworth’s owners, Don and Aylene Keen, personally imported and roasted their own beans -- and that they were the first Charlotte area shop to do so.

Stockton Graham & Company

According to Jeff, his decision to partner with them was easy. “The Keens’ passion was to provide exceptionally tasting coffees by sourcing the finest beans in the world and small batch-roast them to highlight each coffee’s natural flavor and ensure unparalleled quality and freshness," he said.

Jeff became so enamored with the Keens and their operation that, prior to opening Classic Coffees, he used his vacation time from the accounting firm to work at Dilworth in hopes of gaining some barista skills and learning the business of running a coffee shop.

As Classic Coffees’ business grew, the partners recognized the need for a larger shop. When the space next door became available in early 1996, they leased it, knocked down the wall between the stores and bought their first coffee roaster. At the same time, the specialty coffee industry was exploding, and customers wanted unique, tasty beverages.

Where are all the customers?

Stockton Graham & Company

“This was back before Starbucks had frappuccinos," recalled Jeff. "It was summertime, and we were wondering where all our customers had gone. Once we realized we needed cool and refreshing beverages to drive traffic during the warmer months, we started offering blended beverages and iced drinks. We were learning by trial and error.”

In the mid-90s, there weren't many coffee roasters or suppliers in central North Carolina. So, as other Triangle coffee shops opened, proprietors came to Classic Coffees to source their beans.

However, as that side of the business surged, Jeff realized that he was more interested in supplying beans than running a coffee shop.

Stockton Graham & Company

By the end of 1996, Jeff had bought Wilson’s share of the business, sold the coffee shop and turned Classic Coffees into a wholesale specialty coffee distribution company.

Soon, wholesale clients were asking Jeff where they could find cups, syrups and other supplies as well as how to make beverages such as lattes and frappuccinos, which at that time were considered specialty coffees. As Jeff gradually expanded operations to include all of those items and more, he also began offering barista training and providing menu-writing services.

Growing the business

But, in doing so, he needed much more space. In 2001, Jeff moved the company to its current location and renamed it Stockton Graham & Company. Nine years later, Jeff bought Dilworth Coffee’s roasting and wholesale operations, and, within a few years, Stockton Graham became an all-around resource for coffee shops throughout the state. In 2016, when the Keens decided to retire, Jeff purchased Dilworth's retail store licenses, licensing and the entire brand. This bold move allowed him to consolidate the operations of both companies and re-brand.

Stockton Graham & Company

Today, Stockton Graham makes coffee shops successful by training their baristas, roasting their beans to order, managing their inventory and providing systems, service and support.

Jeff has always tried to help other businesses and encourage a sense of fellowship within the local coffee industry. “I never looked at other shops and roasters as competition," he said. "We are a tightly knit community. I truly believe that philosophy is what fostered our success.”

Stockton Graham & Company

The company even promotes small independent roasters through its sponsorship of the annual North Carolina coffee roasters championship competition at the North Carolina State Fair.

As a “macro micro” roaster, Stockton Graham makes a lot of small batches that run the gamut from introductory coffees, from blends to exceptionally nuanced single-origin and organic coffees.

Brad Kirby, head roaster and director of coffee, has been roasting Stockton Graham’s beans for over 14 years. He works with a small set of fair-trade brokers along with co-ops and small farmers to source the company’s beans.

It's extremely important to Brad and to Stockton Graham that any farm or broker they work with also gives back to farms, farm workers and their communities -- such as building schools, helping with local infrastructure, providing medical personnel and supplies or supporting sustainability.

Where to try it

Stockton Graham’s coffee offerings vary based on what customers want, company history, hot trends and general interest. The company offers limited time and limited quantity runs and at least one or two naturally processed coffees. Currently, anyone can purchase both Dilworth and Stockton Graham coffee beans at Southern Season in Chapel Hill or online.
Additionally, Brewerks Café & Bakery in Raleigh, Francesca’s Dessert Caffé in Durham, Perks@Belk in Raleigh’s Crabtree Valley Mall, Roots Bakery Bistro & Bar in Chapel Hill, Common Grounds in Morrisville, Stick Boy Bread Co. in Fuquay Varina, and 41 North Coffee Co. in Wendell all serve freshly brewed Stockton Graham and Dilworth coffees by the cup.

Plans for the future

Jeff hopes to begin licensing Dilworth Coffee shops in the Triangle by late 2018 or early 2019, while new Charlotte area shops are expected to open late 2017 and early 2018.

Brian Adornetto is a food writer, culinary instructor, and formally trained chef.

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