Bill LeslieBill Leslie's Carolina Conversations
People are always asking me where to take vacation. What's a cool place? What's the most scenic drive? Carolina Conversations attempts to answer those questions and others.

BBQ Battle: North Versus South

South Carolinians will argue that mustard is an essential ingredient to any superb barbecue sauce. Many chefs will fight tooth and nail to keep anything tomato out of their prized concoctions. Apparently this love affair with mustard can be traced to the 18th century when German settlers brought their own sauce to the Palmetto State. They like it tangy in South Carolina. Along with yellow mustard the barbecue sauce south of our border contains cider vinegar, brown sugar and spices.

It is interesting to note that when you go south of South Carolina the loathing of tomato-based barbecue sauce ceases. Savannah chefs embrace ketchup just like their culinary cousins in Lexington, NC.

Have any of you ever had good barbecue outside North Carolina and if so where?  Do you enjoy mustard on your pork?


Ponder that as we get ready to vote tomorrow on the Best of Carolina Barbecue Restaurant.

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I grew up eating the SC mustard BBQ and have to say that it is still my favorite. Maurice's BBQ in West Columbia, SC is the best! My husband is from NC but after we met and he ate Maurices BBQ he became a huge fan. I always go to Maurices during my trips to SC (their hash over rice is outstanding). I have lived in NC for almost 35 years and will eat the Lexington style when I can't get SC BBQ.

DUKES BBQ (Charleston, SC off Spruill Avenue)....I have been eating there since I was in the womb! The decor of the joint has not changed since I can recall which was in the 1970s---picnic tables line the cinder block walls with red checker board table clothes, and Sunbeam white bread loaves and jugs of the sweetest tea you can imagine on every table. Only the hum of the window unit can be heard since everyone is either too busy eating or getting up to get seconds. This of course shows me that they care more about the BBQ than how the place should look---a true sign of a great BBQ joint! BBQ ain't BBQ without hash over rice, though! You have to go to the low country of SC to find hash. And DUKES is the best! For my family, going to DUKES is like going to MECCA--a journey that has to be made several times a year, because it is truly a religious experience.

Our son lives in Tampa, FL, and every time we head down there, it is with a cooler of eastern NC 'cue. I don't think he would let us come without it. McCall's in Clayton is very good. Haven't tried mustard sauce, but don't think I particularly want to.

Eley's Barbecue (nee King's) in Petersburg! A tradition for at least 50 years in Southside Virginia.

Great, great meat. Wood-smoked on site. Get the sliced, it's like pulled. But if you want chopped, they chop it to order! The sauce smoky, and there must be some tomato in it. Definitely not a true Down East pepper-and-vinegar sauce. Also great biscuits (bite-size buttery things) and outstanding apple pie a la mode.

It's very easy to get to because it's between 85 and 95. It's on Hwy. 1 (3221 W. Washington St.) in Petersburg, so if you're coming back down from Virginia, you can get off of 95 at Washington St., travel through town about three miles to get to Eley's, then keep going in the same direction and pick up 85. No time lost, and great barbecue found.

I have the opportunity to travel to Memphis a couple of times a year and I always make time for a stop at Neely's Interstate BBQ. While I am born & bred Eastern NC, I do enjoy their BBQ. Their spaghetti with BBQ sauce is an interesting twist as well.

I have rarely tasted any BBQ that I didn't like, regardless of style. I do prefer the mustard-based sauce from SC over the heavy vinegar sauce of eastern NC. Maurice's in SC is always good. There was another place in east Columbia--Little Pigs BBQ--that was outstanding. Unfortunately they burnt down sometime back in the 80s and never rebuilt. A little too much fire in that last batch that went on the cooker.

Eastern is still the best but I have had Maurice's in Columbia while I was living in Charlotte. I heard it was good so while down there on business I brought some back, suprisingly not bad. I will still throw my vote for best bbq to Doug Saul's in Nashville.

The BBQ song explains it all...

http://rhettandlink.com/blog/2008/07/14/264

Never had any bad BBQ NSE or W. Raised on Piedmont and Eastern style, but my favorite is Memphis style at Charlie Varga's Rendezvous or Corky's in Memphis. The Rendezvous is worth the trip just to get to the place. Not far from Beale St., you literally go up an alley and down some stairs to the basement of an office building. There you will find all the ambiance you can take in with great food and service.

Sonny's (which is a chain with places in NC too..near Concord Mills) in Commerce, Ga. My husband thinks their BBQ sandwiches are like ham on a bun with sauce. But pretty tasty. Our other interesting taste of BBQ outside of NC was in Dawsonville, Ga. (home of NASCAR's Bill Elliott) at a place aptly called "Hogs n Dogs". I've also had BBQ in Austin, Tx, but I'd call that beef on a bun with sauce. NC clearly is BBQ country...east or west.

Ketchup should not be allowed on a cooked pig. Heck, have you ever been to the Roast Grill in Raleigh? They don't even allow ketchup on their hotdogs....they have a sign that says don't even ask for it.

Ketchup goes well with french fries....that's about it.

Bill - Can we have a blog on hog chittlins as well one day?

There has been much emphasis on sauce on this blog. Another HUGE difference in BBQ is how it is processed. Pulled, Chopped or Shredded. My fav is pulled (right off the bone), but I like chopped as well (What you usually get at restaurants). Shredded is just too fine cut for me. GREAT BLOG

As far as sauces go, I have heard a lot of the old folks around home (not in Cary) saying that George's Sauce is about as close as you are going to get (for store-bought)to old-fashioned Eastern NC sauce. I admit, it IS good!

Vinegar based is good on ribs, however for the rest (steaks, and others) I have to go with the ketchup base. TX has shown me a lot of different styles depending on where I was in the state. Eastern TX will be interesting to see this fall to see how they prepare. Austin always did a GREAT job.

A few Steak Houses up north (one is no more) were tomato based. The one my brother in-law had to suffer with. He can't take his meat properly cooked (PINK!) He wants it cooked so it's dead (no taste).

I grew up with Angelo's and Risckey's in Ft. Worth, but I did make the pilgrimage to the Kreuz Market in Lockhart and dang if it wasn't even better than I expected and I expected a lot. By the way, whenever possible (always possible in Texas) I get the brisket. And no, Texans don't use sauce. They use smoke. And maybe a little dry rub, maybe not. If you want sauce, there is probably a squeeze bottle on your table. When I want pig, I ALWAYS stop at a Maurice's in SC. Pig and mustard. Wonderful!

My votes for best BBQ either outside of NC or not pork are below.

Brisket - Rudy's, San Antonio Ribs - Corky's or Blues City Cafe, Memphis Chicken - Hillbilly's, Lowell, NC Mustard based - Bessenger's, Charleston, SC

Lots of folks from Columbia drive 30 miles west on US 1 to Shealy's BBQ in Batesburg-Leesville. And they have a big buffet. Closed on Wednesdays and Sundays.

Also, check out Brushy Creek BBQ in Piedmont, SC (outside Greenville). Good chicken and ribs too.

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