Good Things Happen When Bread Meets Eggs

The original egg on a roll was not bought from a cart on the streets of Manhattan, I imagine, but it is now a cheap, fast, made-to-order breakfast for New Yorkers of all stripes in a hurry. Wrapped in paper, the sandwich is as unassuming as it is satisfying.

What’s not to like? Egg-and-bread anything is a great combination, no matter how plain or fancy: fried egg sandwiches; soft-scrambled eggs on good buttered bread, a crisp baguette, perhaps; poached eggs on English muffins.

Though I can’t prove it, I suspect the first egg and bread combinations began in various regions of the Middle East, North Africa and South Asia — all cuisines in which bread plays a part. Think of the egg-filled Tunisian brik, for example, or spicy Indian scrambled eggs with chapati.

As for a modern-day Middle Eastern approach, there was a Lebanese place, since closed, alas, where I often picked up lunch. All the food was fresh and colorful. One day, instead of the usual falafel and salad for my pita, I chose an item on the chalkboard, called herb omelet. It was lovely, full of parsley, onion and mint, served room temperature.

I became obsessed with it, trying out other versions at home, adding more herbs. At some point, it was apparent I was conflating the Lebanese version, called ejjeh, with the Persian herb omelet known as kuku sabzi.

Seeking clarification, I asked the Massachusetts chef Danielle Glantz, whose family comes from Zgharta in northern Lebanon. Her grandmother made three kinds of ejjeh: one with potato, onion, mint and parsley; one with onion, mint and parsley; and a deluxe one, with fatty lamb, potato, mint and parsley. The ejjeh was always served with pita, tahini and labneh (yogurt cheese).

Then I checked with Andy Baraghani, an editor at Bon Appétit and an authority on Persian cooking, about the differences between ejjeh and the Persian kuku. He confirmed that the Persian omelet was always made with lots of chopped parsley, dill, mint, cilantro: the more packed with herbs, the better, and just enough eggs to bind them.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

For the chopped salad:

1 cup diced tomato, in 1/4-inch cubes, a mix of red or yellow, if possible

1 cup diced cucumber, in 1/4-inch cubes

1/2 cup finely diced red onion

2 cups cooked chickpeas

Salt and pepper

Pinch of red-pepper flakes

For the yogurt sauce:

2 tablespoons tahini

1/2 teaspoon finely grated garlic (about 2 cloves)

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt

Salt, to taste

For the omelet:

1/2 cup chopped scallions

1 cup chopped dill

1 cup chopped parsley

1 cup chopped cilantro

4 large eggs, beaten

1/2 teaspoon baking powder (optional)

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 to 6 large pita flatbreads, warmed

1. Make the chopped salad: Combine tomato, cucumber, onion and chickpeas in a bowl. Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of red-pepper flakes. Toss well and set aside.

2. Make the yogurt sauce: In a small bowl, whisk together tahini, garlic and lemon juice. Whisk in yogurt and a good pinch of salt. Set aside.

3. Make the herb pancake: Put scallions, dill, parsley and cilantro in a mixing bowl. Add beaten eggs and stir well to make a thick green mixture. Whisk in baking powder, if using, and season well with salt and pepper.

4. Warm olive oil in a 9- or 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add egg-herb mixture and spread across pan in an even layer, as if making an omelet or frittata. Cook for 2 or 3 minutes until bottom is set, then put on a lid and continue cooking until top is set, about 2 minutes or so. (Alternatively, finish cooking the top under broiler.) The herb pancake may be served warm or at room temperature.

5. To serve, cut pita breads in half to make pockets. Place a slice of herb omelet in each pocket, and add a large spoonful of chopped salad. Top each pocket with about 2 tablespoons yogurt sauce.