I have been to Turkey once before, and spent a few hours over a couple of days at the Spice Market (also known as the Egyptian Bazaar). So it was in this spirit of “I’ve been here before and know my way around” that I launched out solo following lunch at the bazaar. They were giving us 40 minutes to look and shop. If you’ve never been to a bazaar in Turkey or other countries, it is the experience of a lifetime. Stalls filled with spices and teas and color gizmos and gadgets that you can’t find back home, and smells of all kinds swirling up your nose. I bought a few things at one stall – Turkish Delight and candied chestnuts – before finding my super salesman at the stall around the corner. I was only planning to buy tea and soap, but ended up with a little more than that. You gotta hand it to the Turkish people – that know how to work a sale. But this guy - whose name is Tonai (not sure about the spelling, but it’s “tonight” without the last “t”) was nice and “gave me a good price” as I continued to put more on the table. We had more than a few laughs, and I took his picture (see this BLOG). I was sauntering away toward the door, feeling proud of my shopping prowess and heavy bags, when I glanced at someone’s watch … 3:00! And our escort said we absolutely had to be at the bus by 2:45! The road in front of the bazaar is extremely congested and they can’t sit and wait. Sure enough, as I came running out they were just pulling out … they had waited as long as they could. They saw me and shouted out the door for me to make a run for it, so I pulled out my best James Bond and slid through three lines of traffic and into the bus door just in time! (So if you get a bazaar souvenir from me, maybe this story will help you appreciate it more!)

Our next stop was at the Istanbul Archeological Museum, home to the first peace treaty from the Middle East (around 1200 BC), the sarcophagus of Alexander the Great, and portions of the gate from ancient Babylon. Let me tell you, there is nothing more humbling than seeing object after object that has been in existence for more than 2000 years … some closer to 3000 years. There were three museums at this complex, and each was filled with relics. To be there and see it, touch it … I felt very small. What an incredible experience.

We attended a service at a local mosque, and were present for the singing of the prayers inside. We sat on the floor and listened for about 20 minutes. Our hosts arranged this special experience. We then toured the Dolmabahce Palace, built in the mid-nineteenth century as the new palace for the sultan. It’s European in design and is maxed out with gilded ceilings, walls, chandeliers, the works … very different from the minimalist and desert tent-like feel of Topkapi Palace. We ended the day by driving to the Asia side of the city for a lesson in ebru – Turkish paper marbling. This is a fun and fascinating art form that’s pretty easy to do. It takes about three minutes if you know what you’re doing, and involves glue, ox gall, paint and paper. Pretty simple. See pictures for a look at the process.

Now – to close – the question of how Turks view Americans. To look at the statistics, the outlook is dim. Fewer than 10 percent of Turks say they like Americans. But like all surveys of this nature, so much of their perception is driven by the media and politics. In other words, there is a difference in disliking America and disliking Americans – the real every day, flesh and blood people. I have not once felt mistreated or mistrusted or even disliked. Even on the street, no one treats me any differently. As in all cases like this, once the Turks – or anyone from anywhere for that matter – meets the real American, they tend to like us. We’re not so bad, right? But I tell you, the more we can reciprocate that friendliness and openness with others in the world, the better off we’ll be.

More soon.