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8:13 p.m. • 2-12-12

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Todd Culpepper is executive director of the International Affairs Council, a Raleigh-based nonprofit focused on international exchange and education.

Talking Turkey: The Country, Not the Bird

Todd Culpepper is executive director of the International Affairs Council, a Raleigh-based nonprofit focused on international exchange and education. Culpepper was invited by the Turkish Cultural Foundation to participate in a 15-day educational and cultural tour of Turkey, with stops in Istanbul, Edirne, Canakkale, Bursa, Iznik, Ankara, Amasya, Tokat, Sivas, Kayseri, Cappadocia, and Konya. He is traveling with a small group of business, government, and education leaders from across the U.S.

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Aya Sofya

Of Palaces, Mosques and Friendship

Listening to details about the many conquests that have taken place in Turkey over the centuries, I am pleased that our group is getting along so well. In fact, I’ve got a new friend in Sen. Pat Engel of Nebraska. We really hit off well from the get-go. Like my dad, he’s retired from State Farm. We seem to find humor in the same things, and neither of us minds taking pictures at every opportunity (such tourists).

Our hosts are keeping us on the go, but it’s all so fascinating. On Sunday we toured the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet, 14th century) and the famous and magnificent Aya Sofya (6th century), my favorite from the Byzantine period. Both are beautiful and sit across a large courtyard from one another. We Americans were once again amazed by the age of our surroundings, and later in the day began to call relics from the 15th and 16th centuries “new.” It’s all relative. We just can’t match the age of these amazing places back at home.

On Monday we went to Suleymaniye Mosque, designed by the great architect Sinan in the mid-16th century. I have to say, this is my favorite from the Ottoman period. The inside of the mosque is subtle and understated, but magnificent. We then went to Topkapi Palace, built by Sultan Mehmet II as his principal residence on a hill overlooking the Golden Horn. I visited the palace last September, but saw things today I missed the first time – including the skull of John the Baptist. We had lunch in a grand outdoor café with spectacular views of the Golden Horn. Why would any Sultan want to leave this place?

At one point on Sunday while we were out and about, I went around to the men’s room and saw a lady standing at the end of the line. At first I thought she’d made a mistake, until I realized there were four women in front of her! They were all tourists. The bathroom attendant looked at me and shrugged his shoulders. I saw the urinals along one wall, and asked him (non-verbally) if I could go in. He nodded. But then I realized the stalls where the women were going were right across from the urinals. Hmm, a little uncomfy. A lady from Italy realized what was happening and called out “Prego! Prego!” (telling me to come in) then covered her eyes with her hands. By then about five men were standing behind me, hoping I’d figure out something for all of us. When the last lady made her way into the stall, we all charged for the urinals. When in Rome ...

Incidentally, our driver – whose name means “Old Testament” – must leave us today for another assignment. We wonder if New Testament will take his place.

BTW, got my bags! More soon!

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John the Baptist's skull Circumcision hall Old Testament, New Testament Prego! Prego!

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