A Mild-Mannered, but Sophisticated Midwestern Cheese

This hefty 20-ounce cheese wheel is labeled Monroe, after the town in Wisconsin where the company that makes it is based. Within the cheese’s ruddy, slightly tacky rind is a pale, satiny interior. What is remarkable is that despite its penetrating barnyard aroma, this double cream, washed-rind wheel from the Roth cheese company tastes fruity and rather mild. Be sure to allow it to come to room temperature before serving; it merits a glass of Sauternes alongside.

Roth Kase Monroe, $32.99 a pound, Murray’s Cheese stores, murrayscheese.com.